Bespoke Shirt Tailoring Guide

Why Commission Bespoke Shirts

The difference between a ready-made shirt and a bespoke shirt extends far beyond simple fit adjustments. A truly bespoke shirt is created specifically for your body, preferences, and lifestyle through a process that accounts for every detail.

The Bespoke Shirt Advantage

• Perfect fit: Accommodates your exact measurements including shoulder width, arm length, neck circumference, chest, waist, and torso length
• Posture accommodation: Accounts for dropped shoulders, forward posture, or other individual characteristics
• Sleeve pitch: Adjusted to match your arm's natural hang
• Precise collar: Neither too tight nor too loose, sitting perfectly at your neck
• Fabric selection: Access to hundreds of high-quality shirting fabrics unavailable in retail
• Complete customization: Every detail - collar, cuffs, placket, buttons, monogram - chosen to your specification
• Construction quality: Single-needle stitching, hand-finished details, and superior durability
• Reordering ease: Your pattern is retained for future orders

Investment and Value

While bespoke shirts represent a greater initial investment than off-the-rack options, they provide exceptional value through:

• Superior longevity (often lasting 5-10+ years with proper care)
• Better appearance and confidence from perfect fit
• Reduced need for alterations or replacements
• Unique personalization that reflects your style

Learn more about bespoke garment investment in our Bespoke Suit Cost & Pricing guide, which discusses similar value principles.

Collar Styles Explained

The collar is the most visible and defining element of any dress shirt. Choosing the right collar style depends on your face shape, neck dimensions, tie preferences, and intended use.

Spread Collar (Classic)

The spread collar features moderate distance between the collar points, typically 3.5-4.5 inches. This is the most versatile and popular collar style for business and formal wear.

• Best for: Most face shapes and tie knots; business professional settings
• Tie knots: Four-in-hand, half-Windsor, full Windsor
• Formality: Medium to formal
• Face shapes: Works for everyone; especially flattering on longer faces
• When to choose: Your foundational business and formal shirts

Cutaway Collar (Wide Spread)

The cutaway collar has a wider spread (5-6+ inches) with points that angle dramatically outward. This modern, assertive style originated in Italian tailoring and has become increasingly popular in British shirtmaking.

• Best for: Larger tie knots; modern, fashion-forward looks
• Tie knots: Full Windsor, Pratt knot, or worn without a tie
• Formality: Medium; can be dressed up or down
• Face shapes: Elongated faces; adds width to narrow faces
• When to choose: When you want a contemporary, confident appearance

Button-Down Collar

The button-down collar features small buttons that fasten the collar points to the shirt front, creating a slightly rolled, casual appearance. This style originated with polo players who needed to prevent collars from flapping.

• Best for: Casual business, smart casual, sportswear
• Tie knots: Smaller knots (four-in-hand); often worn without ties
• Formality: Casual to business casual
• Face shapes: All, particularly round faces
• When to choose: Casual Fridays, weekend wear, American-style business casual

Note: Traditional British formal dress generally avoids button-down collars with suits and ties, though American business culture embraces this combination.

Tab Collar

The tab collar features a small fabric tab or snap that connects the two collar points beneath the tie knot, pushing the tie forward and upward for a distinctive, elevated appearance.

• Best for: Formal business wear; creating impressive tie presentation
• Tie knots: Smaller knots (four-in-hand, simple knot)
• Formality: Formal
• Face shapes: Narrow to medium; adds fullness below the chin
• When to choose: Important presentations, interviews, traditional formal occasions
• Important: Must always be worn with a tie

Wing Tip Collar

The wing tip collar features small, downward-pointing wings where traditional collar points would be. This highly formal style is reserved exclusively for evening wear.

• Best for: White tie, formal morning dress
• Tie style: Bow ties only (never neckties)
• Formality: Most formal
• When to choose: White tie events, formal weddings as part of morning dress

Club Collar (Rounded)

The club collar features rounded collar points rather than pointed ones, creating a vintage, distinctive appearance that harks back to the 1920s-30s.

• Best for: Those seeking vintage-inspired style; creative professionals
• Tie knots: Smaller to medium knots
• Formality: Business to smart casual
• Face shapes: Angular faces benefit from the softening effect
• When to choose: When you want distinctive, old-world elegance

Cuff Style Options

Cuffs affect both the shirt's appearance and your comfort throughout the day. The right cuff style depends on your professional environment, whether you wear jackets, and personal preference.

Barrel Cuff (Button Cuff)

The barrel cuff is the standard cuff style, fastening with one or two buttons. It's versatile, comfortable, and appropriate for virtually any situation.

• Best for: Daily business wear, versatility, comfort
• Formality: Business casual to business formal
• Buttons: Single-button (more casual) or two-button (more formal and adjustable)
• When to choose: Your everyday shirts; when jacket wearing is optional

At Apsley Tailors, we typically recommend two-button barrel cuffs for bespoke shirts, as they allow fit adjustment and appear more refined than single-button styles.

Double Cuff (French Cuff)

The double cuff (called French cuff in North America) is folded back on itself and fastened with cufflinks rather than buttons, creating an elegant, formal appearance.

• Best for: Formal business wear, evening events, creating distinguished appearance
• Formality: Formal to very formal
• Requirements: Cufflinks (an opportunity for personal expression)
• When to choose: Formal meetings, evening wear, when wearing suits
• Jacket requirement: Generally worn with jackets, as exposed double cuffs can appear overly formal

Cocktail Cuff (Turnback Cuff)

The cocktail cuff is a hybrid style featuring a double cuff with both button and cufflink options, offering maximum versatility.

• Best for: Those who want flexibility between formal and casual
• Formality: Adjustable - formal with cufflinks, business with buttons
• When to choose: When your day transitions from formal meetings to casual evenings

Cuff Length and Showing

Regardless of cuff style, proper length is essential:

• Shirt cuffs should extend 0.25-0.5 inches beyond jacket sleeves
• When standing with arms relaxed, cuffs should reach the wrist bone
• When raising your arms, cuffs shouldn't pull back excessively

During your bespoke fitting, we carefully measure sleeve length in multiple arm positions to ensure proper cuff positioning in all circumstances.

Shirt Fabric Guide

Fabric choice dramatically affects your shirt's appearance, comfort, durability, and appropriate use. Understanding shirting fabrics empowers you to build a versatile, seasonally appropriate collection.

Cotton Poplin

Poplin is the most common and versatile shirting fabric, featuring a tight, plain weave that creates a smooth, slightly lustrous surface.

• Characteristics: Smooth, crisp, lightweight to medium weight
• Thread counts: Typically 100-300 (higher = finer and more expensive)
• Best for: Business shirts, formal shirts, year-round wear
• Wrinkle resistance: Moderate (high thread counts wrinkle more easily)
• Seasons: All seasons, particularly spring and summer

Poplin is the foundation of any bespoke shirt wardrobe. At Apsley Tailors, we recommend starting with white and light blue poplin shirts before exploring other fabrics.

Cotton Twill

Twill weave creates a diagonal pattern in the fabric, resulting in a heavier, more textured material that's highly durable and wrinkle-resistant.

• Characteristics: Diagonal texture, medium to heavyweight, durable
• Best for: Business casual, winter shirts, frequent wear
• Wrinkle resistance: Excellent
• Seasons: Fall and winter primarily

Oxford Cloth

Oxford cloth features a basketweave pattern with a slightly rougher, more casual texture. It's the traditional fabric for button-down collars and casual business shirts.

• Characteristics: Textured, breathable, casual, durable
• Best for: Button-down shirts, casual business, smart casual
• Wrinkle resistance: Good
• Seasons: Spring and summer (lighter weights) or all-season (heavier weights)

Cotton Voile

Voile is an exceptionally lightweight, semi-sheer fabric perfect for hot weather. It's soft, comfortable, and highly breathable.

• Characteristics: Very lightweight, semi-transparent, soft
• Best for: Summer shirts, tropical climates, layering
• Wrinkle resistance: Poor (wrinkles easily)
• Seasons: Summer exclusively
• Note: Typically requires an undershirt due to sheerness

Linen

Linen is made from flax fibers and offers exceptional breathability and coolness, though it wrinkles very easily - which many consider part of its relaxed charm.

• Characteristics: Extremely breathable, cool, natural texture, wrinkles extensively
• Best for: Summer wear, resort wear, Mediterranean climates
• Wrinkle resistance: Very poor
• Seasons: Summer
• Formality: Casual to smart casual (the wrinkling makes it unsuitable for formal business)

Sea Island Cotton

Sea Island cotton is among the finest, most luxurious cotton varieties, featuring extra-long staple fibers that create an exceptionally soft, smooth, and lustrous fabric.

• Characteristics: Extremely soft, lustrous, lightweight, expensive
• Best for: Luxury shirts, special occasions
• Thread counts: Often 200-300+
• Seasons: All seasons

Cotton Blends

Blending cotton with synthetic fibers (typically polyester) creates fabrics with enhanced wrinkle resistance and durability, though purists argue this compromises breathability and luxury.

• Common blends: 80/20 cotton/polyester, 60/40 cotton/polyester
• Best for: Frequent travelers, low-maintenance needs
• Wrinkle resistance: Excellent

At Apsley Tailors, we primarily work with 100% cotton fabrics, as they offer superior breathability, comfort, and aging characteristics compared to blends. However, we can source quality blends for clients with specific performance needs.

Fit and Construction

The bespoke shirt fitting process ensures every aspect of the garment is tailored to your unique physique and preferences.

The Measurement Process

During your initial consultation, we take comprehensive measurements including:

• Neck circumference
• Chest and waist (for determining shirt body taper)
• Shoulder width (back measurement)
• Sleeve length (from center back, over shoulder, to wrist)
• Arm inseam (underarm to wrist)
• Bicep circumference
• Wrist circumference (for cuff sizing)
• Torso length (for determining shirt tail length)
• Yoke width and slope

Beyond measurements, we assess posture, shoulder drop, arm pitch, and stomach shape to create a pattern that accommodates your body's unique characteristics.

Fit Styles

Bespoke shirts can be cut in various fit styles based on preference:

• Classic fit: Traditional full cut with more fabric through the body; comfortable and conservative
• Tailored fit: Moderate tapering from chest to waist; modern but not extreme
• Slim fit: Significant taper creating a close, contemporary silhouette; requires good physical condition
• Extra slim: Minimal ease; fashion-forward and quite fitted

Most clients opt for tailored fit, which provides a contemporary silhouette while maintaining comfort and movement. The fit choice should align with your body type and how you plan to wear the shirt (tucked vs. untucked).

Construction Details

Bespoke shirt construction surpasses ready-made shirts in several key areas:

• Single-needle stitching: Creates a flat, refined seam (vs. double-needle's bulkier appearance)
• Split yoke: Two-piece back yoke that accommodates shoulder slope and uneven shoulders
• Removable collar stays: Allows cleaning and replacement; maintains collar shape
• Gauntlet buttonhole: Reinforced placket opening on barrel cuffs
• Mother-of-pearl buttons: More elegant and durable than plastic
• Hand-attached collars and cuffs: Superior attachment quality
• Gussets: Reinforced fabric panels at stress points (side seams, sleeve vents)
• Appropriate interlining: Collar and cuff interlining suited to fabric weight

These details contribute to longevity, appearance, and the indefinable quality that distinguishes bespoke from mass-produced shirts. Learn more about construction quality in our Bespoke Tailoring Process guide.

Pattern Retention

Once your pattern is perfected through fittings, it's retained in our records. This allows you to reorder shirts without additional fittings, though we recommend periodic measurement checks if your physique changes significantly.

Monogramming and Personalization

Monogramming adds a personal touch to bespoke shirts while serving as a mark of ownership - particularly useful in households where multiple people have similar size clothing.

Monogram Placement Options

• Cuff: The most traditional and visible placement, appearing on the left cuff (right when arms are crossed)
• Chest pocket: If your shirt includes a pocket, monogramming can appear above it
• Lower front: Above the waist on the shirt front, visible when untucked
• Collar band: Inside the collar band, visible only to you
• Shirt tail: Hidden placement for subtle personalization

Traditional etiquette places monograms on the cuff (single cuff) or at the center of the front placket, though modern practice allows more flexibility based on personal preference.

Monogram Styles

• Three-letter: First initial, last initial (larger), middle initial (e.g., JRF for John Robert Fitzgerald)
• Two-letter: First and last initials
• Full name: Your complete name in script
• Font choices: Block letters, script, ornate traditional styles
• Color: Matching thread, contrasting thread, or tone-on-tone

Caring for Bespoke Shirts

Proper care extends the life of your bespoke shirts and maintains their appearance. Well-maintained shirts can serve you for 5-10+ years.

Washing Guidelines

• Frequency: Wash after each wear for dress shirts; casual shirts can go 2-3 wears if no perspiration
• Professional laundering: Recommended for dress shirts; ensures proper pressing and collar/cuff maintenance
• Home washing: Use gentle cycles, cold or lukewarm water, quality detergent
• Separate colors: Wash whites separately; sort by color groups
• Pre-treat stains: Address collar and cuff stains before washing
• Avoid bleach: Can weaken fibers and yellow white shirts over time

Drying and Pressing

• Air drying: Gentlest option; hang on shaped hangers while slightly damp
• Machine drying: Avoid if possible; if necessary, use low heat and remove promptly
• Ironing: Iron while slightly damp for best results
• Iron temperature: Adjust based on fabric (cotton can take high heat; blends require lower)
• Ironing sequence: Collar, yoke, cuffs, sleeves, back, fronts
• Professional pressing: Provides superior results for dress shirts

Storage

• Hangers: Use shaped shirt hangers, not wire hangers which distort shoulders
• Buttoning: Button the top button and every second or third button to maintain shape
• Spacing: Don't overcrowd; allow air circulation
• Collar stays: Remove before washing; store separately; replace before wearing
• Rotation: Rotate shirts regularly rather than wearing the same ones repeatedly

Stain Treatment

• Act quickly: Fresh stains are far easier to remove than set stains
• Collar and cuff stains: Pre-treat with quality stain remover before washing
• Ink: Dab with rubbing alcohol or specialized ink remover
• Wine: Blot immediately, apply salt or sparkling water, launder promptly
• Oil-based stains: Apply dish soap directly before washing
• Professional help: For valuable shirts with difficult stains, consult professional cleaners

How Many Shirts to Commission

The ideal number of bespoke shirts depends on your lifestyle, budget, and wardrobe needs. Here are guidelines for various scenarios:

Business Professional Wardrobe

For those wearing dress shirts daily in professional environments:

• Minimum functional wardrobe: 10 shirts (allows weekly rotation with spares)
• Comfortable wardrobe: 15-20 shirts (reduces wear, increases variety)
• Extensive wardrobe: 25+ shirts (maximum versatility and longevity)

Color and Pattern Distribution

A well-balanced bespoke shirt wardrobe includes:

• White: 30-40% of collection (most versatile, formal-appropriate)
• Light blue: 20-30% (second most versatile)
• Other solids: 15-20% (pink, lavender, grey)
• Stripes: 15-25% (blue stripe, bengal stripe, pencil stripe)
• Checks/patterns: 5-10% (gingham, windowpane for variety)

Phased Building Approach

Rather than commissioning your entire wardrobe at once, consider building progressively:

• Initial order (3-5 shirts): Establish your pattern, test fabrics, refine fit
• Second order (5-7 shirts): Expand variety once fit is perfected
• Ongoing orders: Add 2-4 shirts seasonally to maintain and refresh wardrobe

Seasonal Considerations

• Year-round fabrics: Poplin, fine twill (70-80% of wardrobe)
• Summer fabrics: Lighter poplins, voile, linen (15-20%)
• Winter fabrics: Heavier twill, oxford cloth, brushed cotton (10-15%)

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to make a bespoke shirt?

At Apsley Tailors, bespoke shirts typically require 6-8 weeks for initial orders (which include pattern development and fittings) and 4-6 weeks for reorders from your existing pattern. Rush services can sometimes be accommodated for urgent needs.

What's the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure shirts?

Bespoke shirts are cut from a unique pattern created specifically for you based on comprehensive measurements and fittings. Made-to-measure shirts modify an existing pattern to approximate your measurements. Bespoke offers superior fit and complete customization. See our Made-to-Measure vs Bespoke guide for detailed comparison.

How should a proper dress shirt fit?

A well-fitted shirt should: have a collar that allows one finger's width of space when buttoned; shoulders that align with your natural shoulder point; sleeves long enough to show 0.25-0.5 inches beyond jacket sleeves; adequate chest room to pinch 2-3 inches of fabric; gentle taper from chest to waist without pulling; and appropriate length to remain tucked during movement.

Can you match fabrics from my existing shirts?

Yes, bring your favorite shirts to your consultation and we can often match or source very similar fabrics. This is particularly useful when you've found colors or patterns that work exceptionally well with your complexion and wardrobe.

Do I need to wear an undershirt with bespoke shirts?

This depends on personal preference and climate. Undershirts absorb perspiration (extending shirt life), provide additional warmth, and prevent nipple show-through with thinner fabrics. However, they add a layer that some find uncomfortable. V-neck undershirts that don't show at the collar are recommended if you choose to wear them.

What thread count should I choose?

For business shirts, we recommend 100-140 thread count poplin - a sweet spot offering smoothness, durability, and reasonable wrinkling. Higher counts (160-200+) are more luxurious and smoother but wrinkle more easily and cost significantly more. Very high counts (220+) are delicate and best reserved for special occasion shirts.

How do I choose between spread and cutaway collars?

Spread collars are more versatile and traditional, working with all tie knots and face shapes. Cutaway collars are more contemporary, work best with larger tie knots or no tie, and add width to narrow faces. For your first bespoke shirts, we recommend spread collars for maximum versatility, adding cutaway styles as you expand your wardrobe.

Should all my shirts have the same cuff style?

No - cuff variety adds versatility. Most clients have primarily barrel cuff shirts for everyday wear (comfortable, practical) with several double cuff shirts for formal occasions. The ratio depends on how frequently you wear suits and attend formal events.

How often should I replace collar stays?

Quality metal or mother-of-pearl collar stays can last indefinitely. Replace them only if lost or damaged. Plastic stays should be replaced if they become bent or lose their shape. We provide quality removable stays with all Apsley Tailors shirts.

Can shirt patterns be altered after the initial order?

Yes, your pattern can be adjusted if your physique changes, you prefer different fit in certain areas, or you want to try alternative style details. Simply mention desired changes when placing your next order, and we'll modify your pattern accordingly.