Savile Row Fabric Guide

Understanding Wool Quality

The vast majority of bespoke suits are crafted from wool???a natural fibre prized for its drape, resilience, breathability, and ability to take colour beautifully. Not all wool is equal, however. Quality varies enormously depending on the sheep breed, climate, farming practices, and processing methods.

The finest suiting wools come from Merino sheep, originally from Spain but now predominantly raised in Australia and New Zealand. Merino wool fibres are exceptionally fine, soft, and uniform, making them ideal for lightweight, luxurious suiting fabrics. Saxon Merino, raised in cooler highland regions, produces some of the finest fibres available.

Fibre Diameter and Softness

Wool quality is fundamentally determined by fibre diameter, measured in microns (one millionth of a metre). Finer fibres produce softer, more luxurious fabric:

• Standard suiting wool: 19-22 microns???durable, good drape, everyday wear
• Fine suiting wool: 17-19 microns???soft handle, excellent drape, professional wardrobes
• Superfine wool: 15-17 microns???very soft, beautiful lustre, special occasions
• Ultra-fine wool: Under 15 microns???exceptionally soft, rare, luxury commissions

Super Numbers Explained

You'll encounter "Super" designations when selecting fabrics???Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s, and so on. These numbers indicate the fineness of the wool fibres used in the yarn, governed by international standards.

What the Numbers Mean

The Super number relates to the maximum fibre diameter in microns:

• Super 80s: 19.75 microns???robust workhorse fabric, excellent durability
• Super 100s: 18.75 microns???the sweet spot for daily business wear
• Super 110s-120s: 17.75-18.25 microns???refined feel, good durability, most popular range
• Super 130s-140s: 16.75-17.25 microns???noticeably softer, beautiful drape
• Super 150s-160s: 15.75-16.25 microns???luxury grade, special occasion wear
• Super 180s-200s+: Under 15.75 microns???ultra-luxury, very limited wearing

Durability vs Luxury

There is an inverse relationship between fineness and durability. Finer fibres are softer and more lustrous but less resistant to abrasion and pilling. A Super 100s fabric will outlast a Super 180s significantly in regular rotation. Our tailors advise clients to consider wearing frequency when selecting fabric grade???a daily-rotation suit benefits from robust Super 100s-120s, while a special-occasion suit can indulge in Super 150s and above.

Fabric Weight & Seasonal Use

Fabric weight, measured in grams per metre (g/m) or ounces per yard (oz/yd), determines a suit's warmth, drape, and seasonal suitability. Selecting the appropriate weight ensures comfort throughout the year.

Weight Categories

• Tropical/Summer: 200-250 g/m (7-8 oz)???open weaves, cool in warm weather, less structured drape
• Year-round: 260-310 g/m (9-11 oz)???the most versatile range, works across three seasons in the UK
• Autumn/Winter: 320-370 g/m (11-13 oz)???warmer, fuller drape, structured silhouette
• Heavy winter: 380-450 g/m (13-16 oz)???tweeds, flannels, overcoatings, maximum warmth

Seasonal Recommendations for London

For clients based in London or the UK, we generally recommend:

• First suit: 270-290 g/m year-round weight in navy or charcoal???maximum versatility
• Summer addition: 220-250 g/m fresco or tropical???essential for June-September comfort
• Winter addition: 340-370 g/m flannel???warmth and texture for November-February

For our international clients visiting from Hong Kong, Australia, or the southern United States, we often recommend lighter weights across the board, with structured fabrics that maintain shape in higher humidity.

Weave Types & Patterns

The way yarns are interlaced???the weave structure???affects how fabric looks, feels, drapes, and performs. Understanding basic weave types helps you make informed choices.

Plain Weave

The simplest weave, where warp and weft yarns alternate over and under each other. Produces a smooth, clean surface. Most tropical and summer fabrics use plain weave for breathability. Examples include fresco, poplin, and many lightweight suiting cloths.

Twill Weave

Creates a diagonal pattern visible on the fabric surface. Twill weaves produce heavier, more durable fabrics with excellent drape. Gabardine, cavalry twill, and serge are common twill-weave suitings. The workhorse of traditional business suiting.

Herringbone

A variation of twill weave where the diagonal reverses at regular intervals, creating a V-shaped pattern. Classic and distinguished, herringbone works beautifully in sports jackets and country suits. Available in subtle tone-on-tone or bold contrasting patterns.

Hopsack

An open, basket-like weave that creates a textured surface. Hopsack fabrics are breathable, slightly casual, and perfect for summer blazers and unstructured jackets. They crease more than twill weaves but offer superior ventilation.

Flannel

Not a weave but a finish???flannel fabrics are brushed or milled to create a soft, slightly fuzzy surface. Available in plain or twill weave bases. Grey flannel is a cornerstone of the British gentleman's wardrobe: soft, warm, and wonderfully comfortable. Chalk-stripe flannel remains one of our most popular fabric choices.

Premier Fabric Mills

The world's finest suiting fabrics come from a handful of renowned mills, most based in Britain and Italy. At Apsley Tailors, we maintain longstanding relationships with these houses, giving our clients access to their full ranges including exclusive and limited-edition cloths.

British Mills

Holland & Sherry (est. 1836, London) ??? One of the oldest fabric merchants, offering an extraordinary range from everyday worsteds to ultra-luxury cloths. Known for consistent quality and deep archives. Their Sherry Tweed and City of London ranges are perennial favourites.

Dormeuil (est. 1842, London/Paris) ??? A Franco-British house known for innovation and luxury. Their Amadeus range offers exceptional quality at accessible price points, while the Vanquish II collection features some of the finest fabrics available. Dormeuil excels at combining traditional quality with contemporary aesthetics.

Dugdale Bros (est. 1896, Huddersfield) ??? A Yorkshire mill producing classic British cloths with character. Exceptional flannels, tweeds, and traditional worsteds. Their New Fine Worsted range offers outstanding value for daily-wear suiting.

Italian Mills

Loro Piana (est. 1924, Quarona) ??? Perhaps the most prestigious name in luxury fabric. Known for sourcing the world's finest raw materials including vicu??a, baby cashmere, and ultra-fine Merino. Their Tasmanian and Zelander ranges set the standard for luxury suiting. Loro Piana fabrics command premium prices but deliver unmatched softness and beauty.

Scabal (est. 1938, Brussels/Huddersfield) ??? Innovative and luxury-focused, Scabal pioneered many ultra-fine wool blends. Their fabrics often include precious fibres like diamond dust or gold threads in their most exclusive ranges. The Noble range remains a benchmark for refined business suiting.

Vitale Barberis Canonico (est. 1663, Biella) ??? One of the oldest continuously operating mills in the world. VBC offers exceptional quality across a wide price range, from reliable everyday worsteds to premium collections. Outstanding value and consistency.

Zegna (est. 1910, Trivero) ??? Vertically integrated from sheep to fabric, Zegna controls every aspect of production. Their Trofeo range is widely regarded as the finest year-round business suiting, while their High Performance fabrics add technical benefits like water resistance without compromising hand feel.

Colour & Pattern Selection

Essential Colours

Building a versatile bespoke wardrobe starts with foundational colours:

• Navy: The most versatile suit colour???works for business, social, and semi-formal occasions. Every wardrobe should include at least one navy suit.
• Charcoal grey: Equally versatile, slightly more formal than navy. Pairs beautifully with most shirt and tie combinations.
• Mid grey: Softer than charcoal, excellent for spring/summer. Grey flannel is a wardrobe cornerstone.
• Dark blue: Between navy and midnight, a sophisticated alternative for evening or formal day events.

Patterns

• Plain/solid: Most versatile???dress up or down easily. Start your wardrobe here.
• Pinstripe: Classic business pattern. Narrower stripes are more formal; wider spacing is contemporary.
• Chalk stripe: Softer, broader stripe typically in flannel. Less corporate than pinstripe, more characterful.
• Windowpane: Bold check pattern. Best for sports jackets or confident business dressing.
• Prince of Wales check: Complex check pattern, quintessentially British. Works in business and country settings.
• Birdseye: Subtle dotted pattern visible up close. Adds texture without overt pattern???excellent for business.

Specialty & Luxury Fabrics

Cashmere and Cashmere Blends

Pure cashmere suiting is exceptionally soft but delicate. Cashmere-wool blends (typically 10-20% cashmere) add softness and luxury without sacrificing durability. These blends are popular for special-occasion suits and winter weights.

Mohair and Mohair Blends

Mohair adds lustre, resilience, and crease resistance to wool. Wool-mohair blends (often 50/50 or 70/30) create beautiful dinner suits and summer-weight business suits with a distinctive sheen. The fabric of choice for formal evening wear.

Silk Blends

Silk-wool blends bring subtle lustre and an incredibly smooth handle. Best for special occasions and lighter weights. Pure silk suiting exists but is rare and challenging to tailor???blends are more practical and equally beautiful.

Linen and Linen Blends

Pure linen suits are wonderfully cool in summer but crease readily???a characteristic that many consider part of linen's charm. Linen-wool blends reduce creasing while maintaining breathability. Ideal for summer events and warm-climate wardrobes.

Fresco

A unique high-twist worsted fabric specifically designed for warm weather. The twisted yarns create an open structure that allows air circulation while maintaining shape. Fresco is the ultimate summer business fabric???cool, resilient, and elegant.

Fabric Care & Longevity

Your fabric investment deserves proper care to maximise lifespan:

• Rest your suits: Allow 24-48 hours between wearings for fibres to recover
• Brush after wearing: A clothes brush removes surface dust and prevents fibre damage
• Hang properly: Use shaped wooden hangers that support the shoulder line
• Dry clean sparingly: Only when genuinely soiled???chemicals accelerate fabric wear. Steaming removes wrinkles and odours effectively.
• Store correctly: Breathable garment bags protect from moths and dust without trapping moisture

For comprehensive care guidance, see our Suit Care & Maintenance Guide.

How to Choose Your Fabric

Selecting fabric can feel overwhelming given the thousands of options available. Our tailors guide you through the process, but understanding these principles helps:

1. Define the suit's purpose: Daily business? Special occasions? Summer-only? This determines weight and durability requirements.
2. Consider your wardrobe gaps: What colours and textures are you missing?
3. Balance quality and practicality: Match Super number to wearing frequency.
4. Feel the cloth: Handle is personal???some prefer crisp worsteds, others soft flannels. There's no wrong answer.
5. Trust your tailor: We've helped thousands of clients select fabrics. We know how different cloths behave when cut, sewn, and worn.

Frequently Asked Questions

What Super number do you recommend for a first bespoke suit?

Super 110s-120s. This range provides a refined feel and beautiful drape whilst being durable enough for regular wear. It's the professional standard for Savile Row business suiting.

How do I choose between British and Italian fabrics?

British fabrics tend to be slightly heavier with more texture and structure???ideal for the UK climate and traditional British style. Italian fabrics are typically lighter, smoother, and softer???suited to warmer climates and contemporary aesthetics. Both are excellent; the choice reflects personal preference and lifestyle.

Can I bring my own fabric?

We accept client-supplied fabric, though we cannot guarantee results if the cloth is unsuitable for bespoke tailoring. We recommend discussing your fabric ideas with us first???we can often source exactly what you want through our mill relationships, with the advantage of our experience confirming suitability.

How much fabric does a bespoke suit require?

A typical two-piece suit requires 3.0-3.5 metres of 150cm-wide fabric. Three-piece suits require approximately 3.5-4.0 metres. Larger sizes, pattern-matching requirements, and specific design features may increase fabric consumption.

What's the difference between worsted and woollen cloth?

Worsted fabrics use smooth, combed yarns creating a clean, crisp surface. Woollen fabrics use uncombed yarns creating a softer, textured surface (think tweeds and flannels). Worsted suits are more formal; woollen suits are more casual and characterful.

Are expensive fabrics always better?

Not necessarily. Price reflects rarity and fineness, not always suitability. A ??40/metre Super 100s from a reputable mill may serve you better than a ??120/metre Super 180s if you're wearing the suit three times a week. The best fabric is the one that matches your needs.

How do I care for luxury fabrics?

Higher-grade fabrics require more careful handling: rest between wearings, brush gently, avoid dry cleaning unless necessary, and store on proper hangers. See our care guide for detailed advice.

What fabric works best for travel?

High-twist worsteds and fresco fabrics resist creasing best. Wool-mohair blends also travel well. Avoid flannel and linen for travel???they crease readily. Some mills offer specific "travel" ranges engineered for crease recovery.