Suit Lapel Styles Explained

Understanding Suit Lapels

The lapel is the folded flap of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat, extending from the collar to the breast. It serves both functional and aesthetic purposes - originally designed to be fastened high against the throat in cold weather, lapels have evolved into one of tailoring's most expressive elements.

The lapel consists of several key components:

• The gorge: The seam where the collar joins the lapel
• The notch or peak: The distinctive shape where lapel meets collar
• The break point: Where the lapel folds back from the body
• The buttonhole: Traditionally positioned on the left lapel
• The width: Measured at the widest point of the lapel

The Notch Lapel

The notch lapel is the most common and versatile of all lapel styles, characterized by a triangular indentation (the "notch") where the bottom of the collar meets the top of the lapel. This creates an angular, V-shaped gap that gives the style its name.

History and Character

The notch lapel evolved from the turned-down collars of 19th-century lounge jackets - the predecessors of today's business suits. Its practical origins and understated elegance have made it the default choice for single-breasted suits, blazers, and sports jackets.

The notch lapel communicates:

• Versatility and approachability
• Business-appropriate professionalism
• Conservative good taste
• Everyday wearability

When to Choose a Notch Lapel

Notch lapels are ideal for:

• Business suits: The standard choice for office environments and professional settings
• Casual tailoring: Sports jackets, blazers, and unstructured jackets
• Everyday wear: When you need a reliable, appropriate option
• Conservative contexts: Professional environments where understated elegance is preferred

For those new to bespoke tailoring, we often recommend beginning with a notch lapel suit in navy or charcoal - a foundation piece that serves countless occasions. Learn more in our Complete Bespoke Suit Guide.

The Peak Lapel

The peak lapel features pointed edges that sweep upward and outward toward the shoulders, creating a more assertive, dynamic line. This upward "peak" adds visual height and breadth to the jacket, making it the most formal and powerful of the three lapel styles.

History and Character

Peak lapels have their origins in the formal dress coats of the 18th and 19th centuries. Originally standard on double-breasted jackets, they've become increasingly popular on single-breasted suits as well, particularly among those seeking a more distinctive, confident appearance.

The peak lapel communicates:

• Formality and occasion
• Confidence and authority
• Sartorial sophistication
• Evening and special event appropriateness

When to Choose a Peak Lapel

Peak lapels excel in:

• Double-breasted suits: The traditional and most harmonious pairing
• Formal events: Weddings, galas, and black-tie optional occasions
• Evening wear: Dinner suits and formal evening suits
• Statement pieces: When you want your tailoring to command attention
• Professional leadership: Executives and public speakers who want to project authority

At Apsley Tailors, we often create peak lapel suits for clients attending formal weddings, important presentations, and significant social occasions. The peaked lapel adds gravitas without ostentation. Explore our Bespoke Wedding Suit Guide for more formal occasion tailoring advice.

Single-Breasted Peak Lapels

While peak lapels are traditional on double-breasted jackets, they've become increasingly sophisticated on single-breasted suits. This combination offers:

• The ease and versatility of single-breasted styling
• The formality and presence of peaked lapels
• A distinctive alternative to standard notch lapels
• Visual height and shoulder broadening

We recommend single-breasted peak lapel suits for clients who want formal elegance without the commitment of double-breasted styling, or those building a wardrobe that balances business and social occasions.

The Shawl Lapel

The shawl lapel is characterized by a smooth, rounded shape with no notch or peak - the collar and lapel form one continuous, flowing curve from the back of the neck around to the button. This creates an unbroken line that's elegant, distinctive, and unmistakably formal.

History and Character

The shawl lapel evolved from smoking jackets and dressing gowns of the Victorian era, where comfort and elegance were paramount in private gentleman's clubs. It became the preferred lapel for dinner jackets (tuxedos) and has remained the height of evening wear sophistication since the early 20th century.

The shawl lapel communicates:

• Evening formality and black-tie appropriateness
• Refined taste and traditional elegance
• Special occasion sophistication
• Old-world gentleman's style

When to Choose a Shawl Lapel

Shawl lapels are specifically suited to:

• Dinner jackets: The classic black-tie choice, particularly in midnight blue or black
• Evening wear: Formal events, opera, galas, and elegant dinners
• Smoking jackets: Luxurious loungewear with velvet or silk facings
• Special occasion suits: When traditional peak lapels feel too severe

Unlike notch and peak lapels, which appear across the formality spectrum, shawl lapels are almost exclusively reserved for evening and formal contexts. We rarely recommend them for business suits, though exceptions exist for creative professionals in less conservative industries.

Shawl Lapel Variations

Shawl lapels can be customized in several ways:

• Fabric facing: Silk grosgrain, satin, velvet, or self-fabric (the jacket's own material)
• Width: From slim modern styles to wider vintage-inspired cuts
• Peak height: Higher peaks create 1930s drama, lower peaks are more contemporary
• Edging: Satin piping or contrast binding can be added for additional distinction

Matching Lapels to Body Types

Beyond formality and occasion, lapel choice should complement your physique. Well-chosen lapels can balance proportions, add height, or broaden the chest as needed.

For Shorter Builds

If you're under 5'9", consider:

• Peak lapels: The upward sweep creates vertical lines that add visual height
• Higher gorge position: Elongates the torso
• Moderate width: Avoid very wide lapels that can overwhelm
• Angled notches: Steeper notch angles draw the eye upward

For Taller Builds

If you're over 6'2", consider:

• Wider lapels: Balance your height with proportionate width
• Lower gorge: Prevents the jacket from appearing too short
• All three styles work: Your height gives you freedom to choose based on occasion

For Broader Chests

If you have a muscular or broader upper body:

• Peak lapels: Draw attention outward and upward, balancing width
• Moderate to wider lapels: Narrow lapels can appear disproportionately small
• Higher gorge: Creates more lapel surface area

For Slimmer Builds

If you have a lean frame:

• Notch or moderate peak lapels: Avoid overwhelming your proportions
• Slimmer to moderate width: 3-3.25 inches typically works well
• Standard gorge position: Neither too high nor too low

Lapel Width Guide

Lapel width is measured at the widest point and significantly affects the jacket's character. Like trouser widths and tie widths, lapel proportions have evolved with fashion while certain classical measurements remain perpetually elegant.

Classic Proportions

• Narrow (2.5-3 inches): Modern, sleek, best for slim builds and contemporary styling
• Moderate (3-3.5 inches): The most versatile and timeless choice for most men
• Wide (3.5-4+ inches): Bold, vintage-inspired, suited to taller or broader frames

The Tie Relationship

A classical rule of proportion states that lapel width should roughly correspond to tie width:

• Narrow lapels (2.5-3") pair with narrow ties (2.5-3")
• Moderate lapels (3-3.5") pair with standard ties (3-3.5")
• Wide lapels (3.5-4"+) pair with wider ties (3.5-4")

This creates visual harmony and prevents either element from appearing disproportionate.

Era and Style Influences

Lapel widths carry stylistic associations:

• 1930s-40s: Wide lapels (4+ inches) with high gorges
• 1950s-60s: Moderate to narrow lapels (2.75-3.5")
• 1970s: Very wide lapels (4-5"+), often with low gorges
• 1980s-90s: Return to moderate widths (3-3.5")
• 2000s-2010s: Trend toward narrow lapels (2.5-3")
• Contemporary: Return to classic moderate widths (3-3.5")

Lapel Styles for Different Occasions

Understanding which lapel style suits specific occasions helps you build a versatile, appropriate wardrobe.

Business and Professional

• Corporate office: Notch lapel, moderate width (3-3.5")
• Executive/leadership: Peak lapel single-breasted or double-breasted
• Creative professional: Notch or peak depending on formality
• Client meetings: Notch lapel for approachability, peak for authority

Social Events

• Weddings (guest): Peak lapel for formal weddings, notch for casual
• Weddings (groom): Peak or shawl lapel depending on formality - see our wedding suit guide
• Cocktail parties: Peak lapel adds sophistication
• Formal dinners: Shawl or peak lapel
• Daytime events: Notch lapel is perfectly appropriate

Evening and Black Tie

• Black tie: Shawl or peak lapel dinner jacket (notch is incorrect for traditional black tie)
• Black tie optional: Dark peak lapel suit or dinner jacket
• Formal evening events: Shawl lapel for maximum elegance
• Opera, theater: Shawl or peak lapel dinner jacket

Casual and Smart Casual

• Sports jackets: Notch lapel is traditional and versatile
• Blazers: Notch or peak depending on desired formality
• Unstructured jackets: Notch lapel complements the relaxed style

Understanding Gorge Position

The gorge - the seam where collar meets lapel - is often overlooked but significantly impacts the jacket's silhouette and proportions.

Gorge Height Options

• Low gorge: Below the collarbone, creates a longer lapel face and more casual appearance
• Standard gorge: At or just above the collarbone, the classical position
• High gorge: 1-2 inches above the collarbone, elongates the torso and adds formality

Effect on Appearance

Gorge position affects your jacket in several ways:

• Height perception: Higher gorges make you appear taller
• Formality level: Higher gorges are more formal and elegant
• Proportion balance: Gorge position should align with your body's natural proportions
• Style era: Very high gorges evoke 1930s-40s elegance; low gorges suggest 1970s styling

Gorge and Lapel Style Interaction

Different lapel styles work best with specific gorge positions:

• Notch lapels: Flexible - work well at any gorge height
• Peak lapels: Often benefit from higher gorges to maximize the upward sweep
• Shawl lapels: Gorge position determines where the curve begins, affecting the overall shape

The Lapel Buttonhole

The buttonhole on the left lapel, traditionally called the boutonni??re hole, is a vestigial functional detail that's become an elegant finishing touch.

History and Purpose

Originally, the lapel buttonhole allowed the wearer to button the jacket collar high against the throat in cold weather. Today, it serves to display boutonni??res (flowers), lapel pins, or simply as a decorative detail showcasing hand-stitching.

Buttonhole Styles

• Functional buttonhole: Fully cut through, allowing boutonni??res to be worn
• Decorative buttonhole: Stitched but not cut, purely ornamental
• Hand-worked buttonhole: The bespoke standard, featuring visible hand stitching
• Machine buttonhole: More common on ready-to-wear

At Apsley Tailors, every suit features hand-worked buttonholes as standard - a hallmark of genuine Savile Row craftsmanship detailed in our Bespoke Tailoring Process guide.

Buttonhole Positioning

The buttonhole's position varies by lapel style:

• Notch lapels: Positioned horizontally near the gorge or on the lapel face
• Peak lapels: Typically on the lapel face, sometimes closer to the peak
• Shawl lapels: Usually absent, though can be added for boutonni??res

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I have different lapel styles for different jackets in the same suit?

No - jacket and waistcoat should share the same lapel style for visual coherence. However, different suits in your wardrobe should absolutely feature different lapel styles based on their intended purposes.

Are peak lapels too formal for business?

Not necessarily. While peak lapels are more formal than notch lapels, a single-breasted peak lapel suit in a business-appropriate fabric (navy, charcoal, grey) is perfectly suitable for professional environments, particularly for executives and leaders who want to project authority.

Should lapel width match my tie width exactly?

The proportions should be similar, but exact matching isn't necessary. A 3.25-inch lapel works fine with a 3-inch tie. The goal is visual harmony, not mathematical precision.

Can I wear a boutonni??re with any lapel style?

Yes, though it's most traditional with notch and peak lapels. Shawl lapels can accommodate boutonni??res if a buttonhole is added, though this is less common. For weddings and formal events, we often create suits with reinforced buttonholes specifically for this purpose.

How do I know what lapel width suits me?

During your bespoke consultation, we'll assess your build, height, and shoulder width to recommend proportions. As a general rule, lapels should balance your frame - neither so narrow they appear stingy nor so wide they overwhelm your shoulders. Our fitting process includes trying on sample jackets with different lapel widths to find your ideal proportion.

Are notch lapels less elegant than peak lapels?

Not inherently - elegance comes from quality of construction, fabric choice, and precise fit rather than lapel style alone. A beautifully made notch lapel suit from Apsley Tailors will always be more elegant than a poorly constructed peak lapel suit. Choose lapel style based on occasion and personal preference, not perceived prestige.

Can lapels be changed or altered after a suit is made?

Changing lapel style (notch to peak, for example) is extremely difficult and generally not recommended, as it would require reconstructing the entire front of the jacket. However, lapel width can sometimes be reduced slightly by a skilled tailor, though this too has limitations. This is why careful consideration during the bespoke commission is essential.

Do double-breasted jackets always have peak lapels?

Traditionally, yes - peak lapels are the classic and most harmonious choice for double-breasted jackets. However, shawl lapels can also work for smoking jackets or very formal double-breasted dinner jackets. Notch lapels on double-breasted jackets are extremely rare and generally considered a style error.

How has lapel style evolved over time?

Lapel styles have remained remarkably consistent since the early 20th century, though widths and gorge positions have fluctuated with fashion. The 1930s-40s favored wide lapels with high gorges; the 1950s-60s saw moderate widths; the 1970s brought very wide lapels with low gorges; and the 2000s-2010s trended toward narrow lapels. Today, we're seeing a return to classical moderate proportions that transcend trends.

What lapel style should I choose for my first bespoke suit?

For your first commission, we typically recommend a notch lapel single-breasted suit in navy or charcoal grey with moderate lapel width (3-3.5 inches). This provides maximum versatility across business and social occasions, serving as the foundation of a bespoke wardrobe. Once you have this essential piece, subsequent commissions can explore peak lapels for formal occasions or double-breasted styling.